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Monday, January 6, 2014

Taking Cuttings

I am going to give you a few tips on taking cuttings and being successful at it!

Cloning is asexual propagation. After taking your cut and planting it the end will swell up and callus cells form. From the callus cells come the first specialized root cells. Specialized cells are the ones that give the plant a purpose. New root cells will continue to grow on top of each other and start to branch out.

I've worked in hydro shops for years and it seems like the biggest problem is a lack of patience and knowledge in what a plant is actually going through while changing its whole purpose and becoming a plant of its own.

First thing is making sure the tools you are using are sterile. Just as I mentioned in cleanliness is next to godliness, you want to make sure you are not doing damage by using dirty tools. These cutting are very fragile and susceptible to issues because the cut provides an entrance for disease or even pests.

You want to have everything ready and in front of you when you are ready to take your cuttings. It is important that your cuts get put into water or immediately into a cloning hormone and put into your choice of medium. If you wait too long an air bubble can enter and cause the loss of pressure within the plant, called turgor pressure, causing it to wilt. Snip the end again if it does get dry.

Always take your cuttings from a well maintained and healthy plant. It will be an exact clone of the plant its taken from so if the mother plant is weak it could pass that right on to your cuts. The mother plant you take from should be in the vegative stage. Although it is possible to revert a clone from a blooming plant into a vegging one but who has time for that anyways. Plus its just a lot of stress for the plant to go through.

The best place to take your cuts from is the end of the branches where the new growth is. The cuts should be anywhere between 4"-8". The bigger they are and the more foliage on them the more the new plant has to take care of and keep alive. Pick off any extra leaves and trim down the stem. You should always have a few leaves left with both a node and internode left to help produce for the plant. A node is the site where your leaves come out from and the internode is the spacing between each set of leaves.

Your cutting should be in a warm environment between 75-78 degrees with around 80+% humidity. The colder the temps, the longer the process can take. After a few days you can drop the humidity 5% and it will cause the plant to work a little harder to root.

Rooting can take anywhere from 2-4 weeks.  Should be closer to the 2 week mark but it depends on the woodiness of the plant you are cloning. Don't freak out if your plants wilt. I have had people tell me they toss out their clones after 5 days because they were dying. One of the reasons for his failure was most likely too low of a humidity. Patience my friend. Most of the time your plant is going to go through a little bit of a healing stage. I always assume they will look worse before they look better. Once they start to put off new growth I can pick off the wilted or dead leaves left behind.

I prefer to use Grodan A Ok's or the individually wrapped rockwool cubes that you can write on. You can also clone in an aero machine such as a TurboKlone or EzCLone. They allow you to suspend the plants over a misting of constant water and you can use a gel hormone on the stem or even a liquid concentrate you can put straight into the res. Another method is bubbling or DWC.  You can easily make something with a nursery flat and an air pump. You don't want them sitting in stagnant water, they will most likely rot.




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